The Chickasaw Indians used a site north of Bolivar on the Hatchie (Hatchie is the Indian word for river therefore it is redundant to say Hatchie River) as a crossing point on their travels to the north. By 1818 this crossing site had become Hatchie Town and was used by white settlers entering the newly acquired territories to establish farms and plantations. Hatchie Town proved to be a bad choice for a town due to flooding. This prompted the move to the south to the present location of Bolivar.
Major William Ramsey and the estate of Ezekiel Polk donated the initial lands for the town of Bolivar. Each received a choice lot in the platted town in payment. Copies of the early map showing who purchased the initial lots are still available. The sale of lots on April 22, 1825 generated $6000.00 that was used to build a courthouse and jail. Initially businesses could be built on Court Square. It was not until after the Civil War that the last of these businesses was finally removed. Commissioners of the county ran Bolivar until 1847, when it was incorporated. At that time there was a mayor, a recorder and five aldermen.
Burial was first in a cemetery in Hatchie Town but in 1826 a burial ground was located in Bolivar. This site is on East Market Street near the present jail. This was used until 1860 when Union Cemetery became the city burial ground. Several other cemeteries are located within Bolivar the most historically noted being Polk Cemetery on Union Street. President James K. Polk’s grandfather and other members of his family are buried here. Today Memorial Cemetery is the one most used.
Bolivar served as a river port from its founding until the 1880’s. Keelboats, packets, and steamboats all made regular trips to and from markets on the Mississippi. When the railroads came to the area the era of riverboats came to an end. Stage routes were opened early running from Nashville to Memphis through Bolivar. Several places in and around court square served as stage stops at various times. By 1828, a row of business houses was constructed on the west side of court square. Most residences were situated to the east of court square at this time. Water came from a public spring located near the south end of what is now Water Street.
In 1856 the railroad came through Bolivar. The Mississippi Central Railroad was completed to Jackson, TN by 1858. It was consolidated with the Great Northern Connection in 1877 and later became the Illinois Central. Many jobs were added by the railroad and river trade began to decline. Bolivar and Hardeman County were now accessible from all directions. It was not until the advent of the highway system in the mid-twentieth century that the place of the railroads diminished. Finally the railroad closed and the right-of-ways were sold off.
Churches have always been an integral part of life in Bolivar. The Methodist Church was established in 1830, the Episcopal in 1834 and the Baptist in 1835. Religious services were held in the courthouse until houses of worship could be built. The Presbyterian Church (1858) located on East Market Street is the oldest church building in the city followed by St. James Episcopal(1868). Soon after the Civil War the various Black churches were established with Union Church serving both Methodist and Baptist being first. St. Michael’s Episcopal Church soon followed. In early years education was either private or through churches. It was not until the late 1800’s that tax-supported education was established.
The 1860’s were a tumultuous time for Bolivar. At that time there were 466 residents in the city. There were eighty residences, two hotels, two schools, one newspaper, a concert hall and a full contingent of businesses on court square. In 1862 military law was imposed on Bolivar as a result of the Civil War. Bolivar was important because of its location on the railroad. It was also near several major battles and served as a planning center for several campaigns. In 1864 Union General Sturgis came with 12,000 troops. He torched the town. It is very interesting that only one record book was lost in the burning of the courthouse. It is reported that this was due to the Masonic connection between the North and the South. Before the courthouse was burned, county officials were notified and removed all records and much of the furniture. These were stored in a basement on south Washington Street until the new courthouse was built in 1867. Stories are told that the county applied for funds from the federal government to rebuild the courthouse.
The 1870’s were a time of progress. By 1875 Bolivar had a population of 775 whites and 425 blacks. A public well was dug, plank walks installed in the business district, and a three-storied hotel was built. In 1876 fire again destroyed much of down town with another coming in 1878. More fires took place throughout the 1880’s.
The 1880’s saw a population around 1500 persons. An opera house was built, Dunlap Springs (a resort burned in 1864) was reopened and more businesses were added on court square. Western State Hospital was completed in 1889. Most of downtown was rebuilt after another fire in 1885. Schools were established with some public support. Various clubs and organizations provided entertainment. The first bank in the county was established in 1886 (The Bank of Bolivar).
Most of the brick buildings on Court Square date from the turn of the last century. It is one of the best and largest collections of late 19th and early 20th century architecture in West Tennessee. This is proof that the people of Bolivar had faith in the town and the new century.
Throughout the 20th century Bolivar continued to increase in commerce and population. Public education continued as a main issue. New school buildings were added. Men of Bolivar served gallantly in both World War I and II.
In the 1920’s a movie theater was built, roads were graveled, a chamber of commerce was established, and motor busses were making three trips a day through town. The water system was improved and a sewer system was installed.
The blush of the twenties gave way to the depression of the thirties. Banks closed, businesses closed and teachers were paid with warrants because there were no funds to pay them. All was not gloom and doom, the first lending library was established by Miss Lillias Bills. The WPA gave work to those out of work: streets were graveled, public buildings painted and a community house built. Dr. R. L. Cobb became the first county health officer and began a program to improve the health of all persons in the county. A school gym was built. Northeast of town the CCC established a camp that enrolled many young men of the county. A funeral home, a new movie theater, a café and finally in 1935 electricity came furnished by TVA. By the end of the thirties the population was 1,217.
The 1950’s saw Bolivar adopt a new charter. A hospital was built and the first city owned administration building was dedicated in 1954. Natural gas was installed. In 1954 the regional library was opened over the Hardeman Savings Bank down town. The Forest Festival was started in 1956. A wastewater disposal plant was built. Street markers were put up. The population reached 2,900.
The 1960’s saw integration of the schools. Much movement of churches and businesses took place as downtown became crowded and parking became difficult. The library moved to the old Church of Christ building on Main Street. In 1969 the population increased by 2,800 with the annexation of Western State Hospital complex. Public housing came to the area for the poor.
In 1980, the population was 6,597. During the 1980’s there was a continued drop in population because of the downsizing of Western State facilities. Several industries closed or moved away. Things stood still for awhile.
The 1990’s have seen an increase in population from 5,969 in ’90 to at 6,200 in 2000. Unemployment has remained high as the city and county have struggled to attract new business and industry to the area. The city now encompasses 670 square miles with an annual budget of 9 million plus dollars. Western State continues to be the largest payroll in the county with the schools following. A beautiful new municipal center has been built containing city offices, a gym, and a senior citizens center. This is located on the site of the old school. The library has expanded its facilities and has one of the highest rates of circulation in West Tennessee. The city now has twenty-one police officers, nine firemen, and a full group of support personnel. A world class softball facility has been added which hosted a state tournament. Highway 64 has expanded to four lanes to Bolivar, which places Memphis only an hour’s drive away. There is continued discussion about a by-pass around Bolivar and at this time no decision has been made.
The city and county continue to promote the area for industry and tourism. At this writing several historic building in downtown are being restored and many historic homes are being refurbished. With its rich past and great potential for the future Bolivar just as its name sake, Simon Bolivar, will not only survive but will move forward with great promise.
The writer has liberally used the research of Fae Jacobs Owens, Pat Vicent, Rebecca Vaughan and Faye Davidson as well as the Hardeman County Guide in the writing of this article. For a more detailed account of the history of Bolivar refer to the 1976 edition of the Hardeman County History.